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Attic
How well a home is insulated will determine its comfort
level. I have never seen an over insulated house. The majority
of houses are under insulated, in many cases woefully so, built
during the bye gone days of cheap energy.
The effectiveness of commercially available
insulation is measured in terms of its R-Value, a figure that describes
the relative resistance to the flow of heat through the material.
Higher that number is the better.
99% of houses built before 1990 has R-11 exterior wall cavity insulation.
That is because the structural frame is built with 2"x4"
studs and 31/2" or R-11 of fiberglass insulation is all that
will fit. In our area that has been determined as insufficient and
the building code for new construction has been revised to require
2"x6" frame studs and R-19 or 51/2" of fiberglass
insulation.
Since heat rises, the most important place to have adequate
insulation is the attic. Fortunately it is also the easiest
place to check and add insulation if need be. It is impossible to
check the insulation value of a wall unless you have X-ray eyes
but it is a safe bet that it is R-11 at best. In our area attic
insulation of R-38 minimum is code. The Department of Energy recommends
R-49. That is about 12” to 16" thickness of fiberglass
batting or 18” to 24" of loose cellulose “blow
in” type of material.
The attic must be adequately vented and should not have high humidity
or signs of moisture accumulation. The building inspector will be
sure to check all that. At a house that my dad was seriously considering,
his home inspector informed us that the power exhaust vents from
the bathrooms and kitchen range exhausted straight into the attic
instead of out the roof. There were no apparent moisture damage
but none the less a bad situation that needed to be rectified. The
house was rejected.
http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_16.html
| Recommendations for locations around the country
by zipcode, US Department of Energy website Insulation
Fact Sheet. |
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